4 stories from Kashmir — treks, culture, seasons, and honest ground truth.
Sonamarg — where the snowline drops to meet you. Sonamarg's golden meadows open after the rains; Thajiwas glacier walks start as the pass road clears.
Gulmarg — the gondola to Apharwat. Two gondola stages lift you from 2,690m to 3,980m; in late August the meadows are green and the clouds walk below you.
Pahalgam — meadows at the tree line. Pahalgam's Lidder valley: Baisaran and Betaab meadows, horse trails, and the last green weeks before autumn.
Srinagar — the garden city. Mughal gardens, the Dal lake's floating market, and chinar trees beginning to turn — Srinagar in early September.